Brda
Kristian
Keber
Opoka – Ponka – Flysh
Opoka is the name of our soil, which is a sedimentary rock formed on the seabed during the Eocene. It consists of alternating layers of soft rock, “marl“, and hard rock, “sandstone“. This combination and the constant presence of clay mean that the land never requires irrigation.
In addition to ponca, the peculiar characteristics of the wines are given by the proximity between the Adriatic and the Julian Alps, the altitudes and exposure of each individual hill. All this generates good temperature ranges ideal for white grapes.
Kozlink
Kozlink is the name of the location, where I cultivate 1.7 ha of vineyard, which was planted 60 years ago by my grandfather Roman. The predominant variety is Ribolla Gialla which, together with Tocai and Malvasia Istriana, composes my wine BRDA. The age of the vines, the altitude and the cultivation with minimal tillage allow for very few interventions against downy mildew and powdery mildew. A very significant advantage of this cru is that it is surrounded by woods, providing a cooler climate and shielding from the influence of nearby vineyards.
CATTLE IN THE VINEYARD
During the winter, in all the vineyards, our cows and sheeps graze between the rows, avoiding aggressive mechanical mowing, distributing natural fertilization and lightly working the soil. Our animals stay outside the whole year, living in a mobile house on a wagon where the roof serves as a shelter and also as rainwater accumulator, while a mini-photovoltaic system provides electricity of the mobile fence.
In spring, transhumance takes place in the nearby pastures, and during warmer periods, in our forest. This rotation fosters harmony in the fields and ensures uncontaminated meat, contributing to our dream of self-sustainability.
WILD HERBS
Between the rows in the vineyard, you may find grass up to 1.7 m tall. The idea is to allow as many species as possible to flower and then go to seed, enabling the soil to decide which plant to grow with the aim of enriching the soil with missing nutrients. Many wild species are nitrogen fixers, while others provide natural sources of sulphur and other microelements.
Tall and large grasses also mean strong roots, which work to aerate the soil without using plows or harrows.
MACERATION WITH STALKS
My first macerated wine was a blend of late San Martino grapes in 2003, when I was 16. I still believe it was the best wine I have ever produced (as they say, “beginner’s luck”). At that time, I macerated the whole grapes with the stalks. This gave me an exciting result and led me to use this technique today. The fermentation of whole grape means that each grape is a separate mini tank, resulting in greater aroma and elegance, while the stalk lengthens persistence on the palate.
“This is what I have always preferred to the classic maceration that brings breadth and viscosity.”
THE ROTATING BARRELS
The grapes are lowered entirely into the traditional 7hl wooden barrel called “strettin”, made from Slavonian oak, traditional chestnut, ash and acacia.
Instead of the classic punch down with a stick, the grapes and their stalks are turned on wheels and on themselves multiple times. This allows the oxygenation of the spontaneous yeasts, promoting good fermentation and ensuring an elegant extraction without splitting the grapes.
WHY DO WE MACERATE?
On a trip to Imereti in Georgia, I learned about the significance of maceration of white grapes. Nowadays, it is often performed for identity or commercial reasons, but in the past, maceration was a necessity. It was basically a preservative.
Ready-to-drink wines were not macerated, those for drinking in spring had a light maceration, while the wines with longer maceration were the wines destined to be drunk later in the year.
This is the same shelf life used for cured meats and hams. The old farmers were able to get the best out of each variety. And I, too, believe that a wine based on Ribolla Gialla like Brda must be macerated i to truly express itself at its best. This variety has much more substance in the skin than in the pulp.